The airport in Split, Croatia was small. The arrivals terminal reeked of stale cigarette smoke . I rushed outside to get some fresh air, although it wasn’t much better. Weathered faces of men and women sucked on unfiltered cigarettes right next to the automatic doors leading in to the airport. It was impossible to get away from.

Construction in the old city of Dubrovnik.

When they say it is the airport for Split, it is in fact located 30 minutes outside of the city. The drive wound us through smaller towns with large apartment blocks and shopping complexes. These buildings were fairly characterless, but they served the purpose that they were created for. And then our driver would point out an ancient Roman ruin melting into the countryside, next to one of these buildings.

And that is when it hit me. "Croatia is a land of juxtapositions: ancient Roman ruins lie next to Communist-era monoliths, which in turn sit next to sleek, modern buildings."

That is the nature of Croatia: a foot in the past with a strong enthusiasm to embrace the future. That type of national existence is a difficult one to navigate. Just how much do you honor the past, filled with incredible achievements, but also one that filled with war and bloodshed? Do you forget or do you only select the parts of history that you would like to tell? Every country wrestles with this to some degree. No one and no country is entirely free of bad parts.

Croatia’s history is long and complex. To try to understand it in its entirety would require being born in Croatia or, at the very least, having a degree in Croatian politics and history. I fit none of those requirements, however what I can say is that the history that I did learn while I was there, and what I subsequently learned through research, shows a long line of conquests.

At first there were the wandering Neanderthals who settled the area. Then there were the Greeks who established their first colonies on the islands of Hvar, Korčula and Vis. Then there were the Romans. Emperor Diocletian was from Split and built a palace there. We visited the ruins of this famous piece of real estate. Huge columns still stand, thousands of years later and are used as mis en scène in movies and series today.

Then there was the Byzantine rule, Ottoman rule and Venetian rule. And that is before we even get into modern history.

Depending on who you talk to, Croatia is sometimes considered part of the Balkans. What has always fascinated me about the Balkans region is that there was so much conflict and divisiveness, that a verb was created to describe the very act of division so associated with this region: “Balkanize.”

The Balkans are made up of the countries that straddle the East and the West. It is here that religions define not only your private, but public life and, if you were of the wrong religion or sect in a particular region, it often meant fearing for your life.

The Roman ruins of Salona just outside of Split.

For thousands of years in the Balkans region, Muslims, Catholics, Eastern Orthodox Christians and Jews have co-habitated peacefully and fought bitterly, sometimes ending in decades long wars and genocides.

The Croatian Civil War that ended in 1995 was an effort for Croats (primarily Catholic) to separate themselves and their identity away from that of the Eastern Orthodox Serbs. The majority of Croats wanted to form a country independent to then-Yugoslavia. Serbs living within the now proposed borders of Croatia, opposed the succession.

The war began in 1991 and ended in 1995. As in all cases of war, the number of casualties differ depending on who you speak to, but the general consensus is approximately 20,000 people died, with Croats bearing the worst casualties.

The old city of Dubrovnik bore the brunt of the war, and yet today carries few reminders of what happened. The country spent millions revitalizing and restoring the city to its former glory, and it remains a fortress city that has stood for thousands of years.

That is one of the most beautiful things about Croatia. It’s people are staring straight forward into the future and are largely optimistic. They understand the complexity of their history, but they don’t let that define them.

After all, they have beautiful landscapes, delicious food and incredible hospitality to offer visitors. Tourism on a large scale is still something new for them. Unlike in other parts of Europe where residents are weary of visitors and/or despise them. It’s refreshing.

I am sure one day Croatia and it’s people will grow tired of sharing it’s beauty with others, but for now, there is a level of optimism in the area that you can’t help but enjoy.

For now, she is a country looking forward, excited for what the future will bring.

My Blog

Traveling in Croatia